You'll Be Barreled Over by Beauty of Niagara Falls

Writer Oscar Wilde once quipped that Niagara Falls was "the second major disappointment of American married life," but despite such sentiments it remains a remarkable site that those who see it never forget.

By car, Niagara Falls is about 80 miles southwest of Toronto, less than a 90-minute drive. For those without a car, there is a variety of alternatives including an air taxi, a bus, and a train known as the Via Rail. You can also take advantage of the APA tours that cover this area.

Tourism is the economic lifeblood of Niagara Falls, and there is no shortage of ways to view the falls.

The Spanish Aerocar is a cable car that runs high above the gorge for a magnificent panoramic view. At the other extreme, quite literally, is Journey Behind the Falls, where an elevator takes tourists down to a somewhat stygian view of the Horseshoe Falls and the Niagara River followed by a stroll through tunnels carved from the rock. A third option is Maid of the Mist, a boat trip that takes visitors to the foot of the falls.

Once you've wiped the mist from your sunglasses, you may wish to visit the Butterfly Conservatory, which features thousands of butterflies fluttering about in a natural setting. These living jewels include dazzling specimens from the tropics.

A number of package deals combine several ways of viewing the falls with an optional visit to the Butterfly Conservatory.

Niagara Falls used to offer little in the way of dining, but there is now a variety of interesting ethnic restaurants ranging from standard American- and Canadian-style fare to Japanese, Greek, and Italian cuisine.

If time allows, you will want to explore the rest of the Niagara Peninsula, which has a variety of hiking trails, gardens, and parks. Even more surprising for those unfamiliar with the region is that it is home to more than 20 small vineyards that produce a variety of good wines. Many of the vineyards are open for tours and tastings.

Only four miles north of the falls is the Niagara Glen Nature Area. If so inclined, it is possible to begin in the glen and hike down to the falls. Another option is a visit to Queen Victoria Park, which follows the Niagara River for more than 20 miles. It includes a greenhouse with four large horticultural displays. For those with a desire to stimulate the olfactory as well as the visual, the park offers an outdoor fragrance garden especially designed for the visually impaired.

The small town of Niagara-on-the-Lake, 12 miles south of Niagara Falls, is located at the juncture of the Niagara River and Lake Ontario. It is home to the Shaw Festival, so named because it was established to perform the plays of George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries. Ticket prices at the festival's three theaters range from $22 to $65 Canadian. At press time, the Canadian dollar was worth about $0.70 U.S.

Before or after the show, it is possible to drive along the 35-mile Niagara Parkway, which follows the Niagara River. It offers a series of striking scenic overlooks and a number of easy hikes.

For theater lovers, it is well worthwhile to consider another side trip to the charming town of Stratford, 90 miles southwest of Toronto. The Stratford Festival, which runs from May through October, has become internationally famous for its Shakespearean productions. The festival has expanded its repertoire in recent years to include musicals and the work of other established playwrights. Ticket prices are similar to those for the Shaw Festival.

The town is ideal for a comfortable walking tour, and a guide to the town's history and architecture titled "Stratford Strolls" is available at no charge from Stratford Tourism at 88 Wellington Street. In addition to several museums, visitors may wish to take in the Fort George National Historic Park. The fort sits on a large swath of parkland and was built in the 1790's.

If you find the notion of a 90-minute drive too ambitious, there are a variety of diversions that take advantage of Toronto's waterfront location on Lake Ontario.

Only 15 minutes from the foot of Bay Street by ferry are the Toronto Islands. There visitors will find an expanse of tree-shaded grounds enveloped by water and punctuated with lagoons. There is a kid-oriented farm as well as rides and playgrounds. For adults there are tennis courts and a sunbathing beach. Visitors may wish to explore some of the charming old neighborhoods on Algonquin and Ward's islands. But be aware that there are no cars so you must walk, take the free trolley, or ride a bicycle.

The Lake Ontario Waterfront Trail, which opened only two years ago, runs more than 200 miles between the towns of Stoney Creek and Trenton, passing through the heart of Toronto's harborfront. The trail traverses areas good for birding as well as for explorations of the cultural and historical heritage of the Lake Ontario waterfront.

The Leslie Street spit, which pokes out into the harbor at its eastern end, provides a stunning view of the city skyline. Birders and naturalists also flock to the spit to see waterfowl that congregate there.

The Harborfront Centre, stretching from York Street to Bathhurst, offers an array of shopping, recreation, and the arts amid a setting of marinas and promenades. There are many places to dine and many varieties of entertainment. Regularly scheduled boat trips and private charters depart from the area for tours of the harbor and Toronto Islands.